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  When you view my snaps , you actually see various events and things by my eyes !

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Monday, July 28, 2014

Make Your own Custom Aperture(Custom Bokeh) for DSR Camera


Make Your own Custom Aperture(Custom Bokeh)
for DSR Camera
by Dr M Tauseef Omer

(This blog-post explains the steps for making a custom bokeh for a DSLR camera)(A bokeh is a photo in which the background of a photo [typically speaking the lights in the background] are ‘blurred’ to the extent that it isolates the subject form the background, making the subject -as if popping out , and making the background more , tasty)
(Aperture is a hole in a camera through which light enters to fall on the sensor/film. Its normally circular or somewhat-circular, and hence the lights in the background when blurred [as in a bokeh] turn out to be ‘circular’ in shape )
(A custom aperture/custom bokeh is the one in which some shape cut in say a piece of cardboard is placed in front of the lens of camera, such that the blurred lights in the background of the photo [bokeh] now appear to be in the same shape as that was cut in the cardboard piece placed in front of the lens. The lights in the background could be street lights/road traffic lights/ decoration lights/ or even the full moon ! Here I’ll make a custom bokeh for DSLR .)
Here are the examples of a Bokeh and Custom Bokeh to give initial idea of what we are going to make:
IMG_0778 IMG_0779
--a bokeh…                                           -- a custom bokeh
            (click on the photos to enlarge them)
Step-by Step now:  ( in any step, click on the photos to enlarge them)
IMG_0763 1.Cut a piece of cardboard , roll it and stick the ends with tape , the diameter of this ‘mount’ should be such that this fixes in the space infront of the lens. (see below))
IMG_0764, it fits in front of the lens tightly. Now,
IMG_0765 3.cut another piece of cardboard like this . (the circular marking here shows the diameter, with which it will fit tightly into the above mount , (in the photo above this one)..
IMG_0770 4.Now I made another circular marking with a pen, its actually the same in diameter as the maximum aperture that my lens had ! see below where the maximum opened aperture of the lens is visible (it’s a canon50mm f1.8 II)
IMG_0769 ---(the max aperture measure around 17mm in diameter (measure with a scale) If am not forgetting it was 17 mm on my lens… 50mm f1.8 canon).
IMG_0771 5.Draw the figure that you are going to have as a custom aperture…. I made a ‘T’ in the second circle…. it could be a star, or heart , or whtever you may think of Winking smile
IMG_0772 6. Cut that figure with a paper cutter….Now this is your Custom Aperture !!!
IMG_0773 7.  fold the cardboard around the outer circle , and place it inside the ‘lens mount we made in step 1 and step 2 …… Place this custom aperture as deep in the mount as you may,and it should align with the horizontal !
8. Fix the lens to the camera , and it’s the time for testing…
9. Important points for testing :
> I used a prime lens , if you use a zoom lens, then the lens should be zoomed to maximum , and the aperture opened to maximum for that focal length, then you get a healthy bokeh.
> There should be ample distance between the background lights and the subject
> camera should be as close to the subject as possible !
IMG_0778 10. This is the bokeh that I got with just the lens attached, means no custom aperture on it… (there are party lights in the background hung from wall)
IMG_0779 11. With the cardboard custom aperture now placed on the lens, this is the custom bokeh Winking smile Smile with tongue out
IMG_0785 IMG_0786
--- Photos without   &  with the custom aperture on lens…..(the lens focus was blurred ,just)
more shots :
IMG_0794 IMG_0793
Important points to remember to get success in first try :
1. Use maximum open aperture….
2. In case of a zoom lens, zoom to maximum
3. there should be quite a good distance between subject and background(lights)
4 camera should be as close to subject as possible
5. cardboard custom aperture should be as close to the lens as possible
6. the figure cut in the cardboard should approximately be in same size as the maximum aperture that is afforded by the lens.
7. read a little about bokeh, google it , and you ll find that this lil word is a big world Smile with tongue out … and so is custom bokeh….. Winking smile….

Make your Own Custom Aperture(Custom Bokeh) for point and shoot cameras

Make your Own Custom Aperture
(Custom Bokeh) for Point and Shoot cameras
by Dr M Tauseef Omer

(this blog post targets the custom bokeh for Point n’ Shoot cameras)First…
Read about Bokeh , Aperture , and Custom bokeh to have idea about these, click here ….
Capturing a bokeh from a simple point and shoot camera is a very nasty job ! These cameras mostly have full auto controls such that aperture and shutter settings are wildly set by the camera , and not in your own control.
Capturing a custom-bokeh from point and shoot cameras , and making a custom aperture for this purpose is therefore too difficult and precision demanding job !
IMG_0798 Heres the canonA540 point and shoot camera that I’ll be using….
IMG_0799 The photo shows the zoom apparatus that comes out once the camera is turned on.
IMG_0807 Cut a piece of card board, roll it and tape it , such that it should fix on the lens zoom apparatus of camera as shown below :
When the camera will be turned on it will show something like this on lcd :
Around the borders , on lcd, the distortion due to cardboard is visible.
You ll need to cut that extra card board till there’s no distortion on borders on the lcdisplay. As shown below…:
IMG_0819 Cut a piece of cardboard like this , and draw a figure on it in its centre … I drew a triangle and cut it,, (as I ll show in the photos below)… How much big that figure should be ? Well roughly same as the size your camera aperture opens at MAXIMUM zoom state… This is important, zoom your camera to maximum, and see the aperture , estimate its size…. my camera had around 3.5mm wide diameter aperture…see photo below:
IMG_0801  click on the photo to enlarge it… The arrow shows the aperture ,, and the circle that I have made in the upper right corner of the photo is approximately equal to the one I saw in the camera in the maximum zoomed state… >> This aperture size that you see in ‘your’ camera is actually the region on the cardboard in which you have to make a shape(alphabet/heart/triangle,etc) and then cut it !! therefore, Its all about precision in point and shoot camera to make custom aperture , and needs arty hands (which I failed to have Smile with tongue out and hence I got disastrous results in the end…) (clearly its too difficult to a cut a shape as in 3.5mm wide diameter circle the one my camera had had in maximum zoom state)
The photo below shows the triangle I cut in the cardboard…(lets say it’s a triangle, somewhat Smile with tongue out)
IMG_0820 Its placed on the lens apparatus(camera zoomed to maximum)
Then to stabilize it , the other cardboard thing we had made initially ,it was placed on the lens…. see below:
IMG_0821 Its ready…
Time to test Winking smile Winking smile
These were the shots that came out :: You may click on the photo to enlarge them:
IMG_6105 the cardboard with triangle was not adjusted well , so this photo had background lights out of shape, very out of shape Smile with tongue out .. After adjusting a bit,
IMG_6111 The lights appear to be like stars ,, !!
IMG_6112 here’s a diseased bokeh , though the lights in the background are a bit modified…star-like.
These are disastrous results  Smile with tongue out since making and cutting a figure in 3.5mm space is so tedious job , if you can cut a heart or any alphabet, then its worth giving a try ! I couldn make a nice triangle even, but this blogpost does show whats the basic thing to make custom bokeh for point and shoot camera !
With care in these things, you may have better results :
1) zoom camera to maximum
2) check the maximum aperture of your camera in full zoomed state and a figure should be drawn with size approximate to the aperture opening.
3) use a camera stand . do not use flash.
4)its like try try again,again and again, making and cutting different sized figures in cardboard,till you get to know what size is the best for your camera !!
However, its way too easy with DSLRs..

Making a wired-remote shutter trigger for you DSLR camera

by Dr M Tauseef Omer

Many a times while taking group photos in gatherings with your DSLR  , you might have wished that you were there too in the group instead of standing behind the camera and taking the photo ! There is a feature offered by DSLR cameras (almost all of them) that’s called ‘Remote Shutter Trigger’. This feature lets you take a snapshot by pressing a button on the remote control , such that if your camera is on stand (say) and there are 10 people standing in front of it, and you adjust the camera /composition/etc and join those ten persons with a ‘remote’ in your hand , then just pressing button(s) on remote will let you take photo from your DSLR ,distantly !  The remote control may be wired or wireless.  This blog-post targets Wired Remote Shutter trigger for your DSLR (since its easy to make Smile with tongue out) (and inexpensive Winking smile ) (and quite helpful at many occasions Smile )
Please Note That :
>The camera that I’ll be using is Canon 1000D.
>This method of making a wired shutter trigger is very basic and will apply to all the canon DSLRs
>It does apply to DSLRs by other manufacturers but do a little -google- for your model  !
> Other than its use for taking group photos , a remote trigger could be used for many other purposes, like I often use to prevent camera shake that occurs once camera shutter release button is pressed ,even when camera is on stand ! (you may also use a timer option in you camera to prevent that , but it takes time)  ( and also the shutter trigger remote looks, smart Smile with tongue out)
Here we go making it :
IMG_6114 1.  ( click on the photo to enlarge it )
First check that ‘remote’ sign on your camera … Its marked by arrow in the photo above. It is the site for a 2.5mm stereo plug- that can be connected here. Presence of this site on your camera ,also confirms that your camera supports remote triggering (wired or wireless)….
Here, are ‘two’ controls of your camera , in this jack site :
i) one for simple autofocus function of the camera (alone).
ii) another for the shutter release + autofocus (both).
2. Now, These are the things that you’ll be needing:
      ** Three wires (equal in length) (and the length that’s needed by you – that’s the distance that you need to get away from your camera)
       ** Two simple Press/Push buttons (shown in the photos below)
       ** a 2.5 mm stereo plug (shown below)
       ** some tape/box to secure the contacts and the buttons if you wish to have some looks in the end, otherwise that’s just okay Smile with tongue out
IMG_0829  So here ‘re the things you’ll need. Click on the photo to enlarge it.
2.5 mm stereo jack - on scale  Here’s a closer look of a 2.5 mm stereo jack … *( to get idea , its bit thinner than the standard headphones jack used in pc/laptop/mp3 player etc)
3. Here’s the circuit diagram – very simple Winking smile - click on it to enlarge the photo-
simple circuit diagram To get a better idea- I have added connection photos for 2.5mm stereo plug and the push button below : (click on them to enlarge)
2.5 mm stereo plug - a simple push button
---------------------------------------- The detail , about the working of this remote is also given in this photo
simple circuit diagram
In the end, to add
* many DSLRs ,particularly the high-end ones have wireless remote trigger option built-in. But that’s not the subject for this post
* You may buy a Wired/Wireless remote Trigger for your DSLR,. but its expensive Winking smile , so better stick to the home made one since it works perfectly…